Khat: The Cocaine of Africa
Move over cocaine, there’s a new stimulant in town and it’s taking Africa by storm. Khat, the mint green leaf of the shrub Catha edulis, is not only a way of life in the new nation of Djibouti, but also in the ancient land of Yemen. This rough, bushy plant is grown on large farms in Ethiopia’s Harrar Province and thrives in the cool mountains of Yemen, where it is chewed by glossy-eyed Arabs like coca leaves by campesinos.
Once harvested, the branches of khat leaves are quickly transported to Diredawa, Ethiopia’s civil-war-torn transportation hub, for a night flight to clients across the Djibouti frontier. In Yemen, the precious crop is rushed down from the mountains to maintain its potency, as its efficacy after cutting only lasts for about 24 hours if the leaves are kept moist.
Despite the ongoing Somali-led insurgency in southeast Ethiopia, the khat trade remains uninterrupted. In fact, it has become so lucrative that it is now a twice-daily affair on Ethiopian Airlines. Even if the Somalians were to win the siege of Diredawa, experts believe the khat trade will continue to thrive. Currently, the cargo stands at a whopping eight tons a day.
Once the khat arrives in Djibouti, the normally quiet port transforms into a bustling metropolis. By late morning, motorbikes, trucks, and cars carrying wholesale traders race to the airport to purchase the natural stimulant by the bag as soon as it is offloaded.
Although khat has been illegal in Djibouti since gaining independence in 1976, the authorities have turned a blind eye, following the example of their former colonial rulers, the French. In fact, the French even encouraged the use of khat to keep the natives quiet, similar to the tactics used by the Americans in Vietnam. During the century of French occupation, khat went from being an occasional diversion for a few Issas tribesmen to a national pastime for the male population.
Today, French soldiers are present at Djibouti’s airport to assist importers in carrying away the prized goods for street auctions. Buyers flock to the sun-sheltered stalls to bid on bags of khat. In less than 20 minutes, the airport is empty again as buyers rush back to town. The first to return is believed to have the freshest load to offer retailers, who sell khat from mini-stands or stalls throughout the city.
Traditionally, women abstain from chewing khat due to its taste. However, men of all ages start their daily “dreams” at noon, after the airport rush, when the substance is readily available on the street. This habit can put some families in a bind, as a bunch of khat costs nine French francs ($2), a third of a day’s wages for most laborers. With high unemployment rates in the new nation, the chewing tradition can be a financial burden for many.
